Remove steering rack and column connector. Notice the large bolts point to the center of the a-arm with nuts in the middle. Remove stock A-Arms, keep large bolts and nuts for reassembly. This is just a bunch of bolts, nothing special. Once the a-arm was released from the spindle I slowly let the jack lower until the spring had no tension. I didn’t want a 10lb spring flying out at me. I place a jack beneath the a-arm before I popped it loose from the spindle. Remove wheels, calipers, rotors, strut bolts, springs and control rods. Some people will not agree with this, but this was my preference and it is very quiet!
If you want to have a quiet suspension, lightly grease all rubber/urethane to metal connections. They need to be out of your way and you don’t want them hanging by the brake lines anyway.
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When you remove the calipers and free the spindle, hang them up in the fender well out of the way. It’s really close! 1/16” can make the difference.
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I was able to install the standard oil filter (not the shorty) because I made sure to tap the K-Member to the rear of the car just enough for my filter to clear properly. Also, one of the K-Member’s rear support bolts will have to be removed to get the other large bolt inserted properly. You cannot get the front large bolt in the A-Arm while the steering rack is in place. They only need to move about ½” and it won’t look as pretty as it did before, so deal with it!Įither attach the A-Arms to the K-Member prior to bolting it in place OR make sure you attach them before you reinstall the steering rack. Not a big deal to bend them with a screwdriver or similar tool to get them out of the way.
On the passenger side there are 3 metal brake lines that need to be bent a bit to get them out of the way of the k-member where it bolts to the frame inside the fender well area. You can relocate the ground wire here or chose your own location. There happens to be the guide bracket for the clutch cable just 2 inches away. Remove the screw to get it out of the way. NOTE: the shaft is made to retract several inches, so you can gently tap on the brass connector to get it to release and the shaft behind it will retract allowing it to back off the spindle on the steering rack.Ī ground wire and screw on the drivers’ side will be directly beneath part of the new frame. This will make it much easier to disconnect from the steering rack. Tap it with a mallet to spread the brass connector open a bit.
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Remove this bolt, then get a fairly large standard screw driver and insert it into the locking gap in the brass connector. The steering column connector to the steering rack is a 13mm bolt that pinches a brass connector to the spindle on the steering rack. This will support the engine while the swap-out takes place. Use a jack and some wood beneath the trans and put just a bit of upward pressure before removing the K-Member. This worked quite well and it was surprising how much pressure it took to pop them off. I used a heavy duty puller tool to “pop” the control arm and the A-Arm loose from the spindle. I use my front rims and tires with some boards on top just for this reason.
Use something strong on either side of the car frame that will keep the car from landing on you if it were to fall. 1 person can do the whole job with no assistance.īE SAFE! Raise the car onto 4 or 6 jack stands making sure everything is correctly placed and stable. I have a quality doctors’ scale and carefully weighed the items twice.ĭIFFICULTY: If you have to ask, don’t do it. NET WEIGHT LOSS: 79 pounds! I’ve seen different numbers floating around. UPR Chrome Moly K-Member Kit Install with coil overs